Game Boy Advance - Skeleton Hybrid
Link to assembly video is here.
0.0 Before you begin
0.1 Materials needed
- Stock GBA
- BoxyPixel Metal Game Boy Advance Skeleton CNC Kit + Screen
- #00 Phillips Head Screwdriver (#0 or #000 will work)
- Y2.5 Tri-wing Screwdriver
- 2mm Hex Key
- optional: blue locktite


1.0 Testing
Prior to disassembly of the donor Game Boy, insert batteries and a game cartridge. Turn the volume wheel all the way up, and switch the device on.
- Listen for a chime at startup
- Confirm that all buttons (including triggers, start, and select), function well.
- Wiggle the power switch to ensure it stays powered on
2.0 Disassemble Stock Game Boy Advance
2.1 Remove the six tri-wing screws from the back housing using the Y2.5 Tri-Wing Screwdriver (shown with yellow arrow). Remove the last fastener shown (red arrow), this uses the Phillips #00 Screwdriver.

2.2 When the rear housing is off, remove the left battery clip. (This is optional, but recommended to properly align the type-c battery pack with our metal housing.) There's a small point in the center that keeps it locked in. Locate this point on the inside of the housing. Using a small flat tool, gently push it outwards. Set it aside.
2.3 Once open, remove the four fasteners holding the sheet metal to the inside of the rear housing (see red arrows). Use the smallest Phillips screwdriver. Keep this sheet metal, and dispose of the screws that you removed.


2.4 Remove the plastic power switch by pulling it up and also Remove L and R triggers.

2.5 Release the flex cable by carefully prying up simultaneously on the two small brown tabs (shown by red arrows). They will pop up a few millimeters. Do not pull with too much force. Once these brown tabs are in the up position, next pull up the orange flex cable to release it. (shown by the yellow arrow below)

2.6 Remove three fasteners holding the PCB with a small Phillips screwdriver. Lift up to remove the electronics (Nintendo PCB). Be careful with speaker wires, to not break the solder joints.

2.7 Clean all gold-colored contacts with alcohol. Clean the power switch by pouring a few drops of isopropyl alcohol into the switch. Switch on/off a few dozen times and use compressed air to dry out prior to putting the PCB in the shell.
2.8 Verify the aluminum shell does not have blemishes. Check for bends or distortion on the area around the screen. Verify the plastic fixture does not have any debris on the soft surfaces that could scratch the housing. Place your metal front GBA housing face down on a surface. Ideally, use an item that will raise the front surface slightly to allow the buttons to fully drop down into position. See our universal build fixture that we have available for purchase.
3.0 Assemble Rear Housing
Need: 2mm hex key, ball detent screw, 3-D printed battery tray, battery clip (2.3), game slot metal shield (2.2), *optional: blue locktite.
3.1 Install the ball detent screw. It goes down into the rear housing and keeps the battery cover from sliding in and out. If using locktite, apply a little dab to the screw. With battery cover on, use the 2mm hex to thread in the screw just until contact with the battery cover. If the battery cover doesn’t move at all, the screw is in too far and you should back it out a little bit. Adjust the screw until sliding the tray in and out is comfortable for you, but keeps it secure.
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3.2 Insert battery clip in to 3D printed battery tray. Make sure it’s flush with the tray and not protruding. It should just slide in.
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3.3 Install 3D printed battery tray in rear housing using 2, 4mm screws and install game slot metal shield from stock GBA, using 4, 4mm screws. Careful not to overtighten.
*Reminder to not use any hardware from your stock GBA. They are a completely different thread type.
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4.0 Assemble Front Housing
4.1 Using a little isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swap, clean the area where the front inlay (we offer glass or metal) will attach. When dry, place it face up on a flat surface.
4.2 Remove the paper backing from the adhesive on the glass inlay, insert into front housing and apply a little pressure around the edges of the inlay to attach. You can leave the front protective film on until the final steps.
*If using a metal inlay, you will need to apply your own adhesive. Using a thin 3M 300LSE is recommended.
4.3 Secure the housing, face down into our universal build fixture (or a slightly raised surface for when you put the buttons in later.)
4.4 Prepare the display.
The lower touch sensor controls brightness & the upper touch sensor controls the color palette of the screen. Consider attaching the brightness control sensor to the backside of the glass. Make sure that the placement of these pads will align with the recesses in the 3D printed screen mount. The top color palette control touch sensor doesn't have room to attach, so consider cutting it or you could try lengthening the wire to attach is on the bottom of the glass.

The LCD screen will come with 2 flex cables, a thick and a thin. You will only need one. See which one matches the width on your stock Gameboy Advance and proceed. The other end of the flex cable goes to the screen. On the back of the screen, flip up the lock tab flap, insert the flex, gold contacts down, and close the flap.
Gently move the wires of the touch sensors out of the way and remove the adhesive backing on the top and bottom of the display.
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4.5 Install the display.
Before installing the 3d printed screen mount, make sure the front surface is completely flat. If not, the glass will not adhere. Best practice would be to take some fine grit sandpaper on a flat table. Slide the 3d printed part upside down on the sandpaper to ensure the surface is flat. Clean well.
Place LCD display face down into the front housing and attach the 3D printed screen mount using 4, 4mm screws.
Remove front housing from build fixture, apply gentle pressure (adhesive is pressure activated) to the edges of the display to secure it to the 3D printed screen mount, and place back in the build fixture, face down.
Thread the orange flex cable through the hole in the screen mount.
4.6 Install buttons.
Plastic or metal. They can only orient one direction.
Note: shoulder buttons. The one labeled "R" will go on the left during assembly.
And silicone backings. There are little posts that the silicone needs to be secured on, too.
4.7 Connect PCB to display screen.
Push two brown tabs down simultaneously, to secure.
4.8 Align the GBA pcb and install it.
*Note: orient the speaker first. There's a little tab on it and a relief in the front housing where it sits.
Make sure the posts of the front housing are aligned with the PCB (same posts as the silicone buttons??), and secure with 2, 4mm screws. Careful not to overtighten.
4.9 Install shoulder buttons and power switch.
5.0 Final Assembly
5.1 Orient rear housing on to front housing.
Remove battery cover from rear housing for a visual. Battery contacts on PCB will slide up into right side of 3D printed battery tray. There are also significant contact points at the shoulder buttons to pay attention to, as well as the power switch.
5.2 Install battery.
Type-C on the battery pack should align with the slot on the battery cover. Some batteries might need a little more adjustment inside the battery tray to align.
5.3 Test! Hold the housings together and turn on your GBA!
5.4 Attach rear housing to front with 4, 6mm screws.
5.5 Remove the protective plastic on the front inlay and screen.
5.6 Insert game of choice.